Wordless Wednesday
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What's blooming today?
by Tricia
by Tricia
Introducing – The Toad Lily –
Isn’t it a beautiful flower? It’s 1 to 1.5 inches in diameter.
Here’s another view that displays the bloom as well as it’s very phallic looking flower buds:
Toad lily, Tricyrtis hirta, is one of a dozen species of Asian herbs of the lily family that are found in the Himalayas, China and Japan.
This species grows 2-3 feet tall with gracefully arching stems arising from an underground root system. It has 4-inch long clasping leaves that are covered with a coat of fine hairs, hence the species name, which means “hairy.”
A variegated form is available with each leaf delicately edged with an eighth-inch halo of yellow.
The genus name Tricyrtis is from Latin and translates as “three convexities.” It refers to the three match-head sized swollen nectary glands at the base of each flower. The flowers are borne singly along the stem, where each of the alternate leaves attaches to the stem.
Established toad lilies may have as many as two dozen of these 2-inch wide flowers splayed out along the stem when they come into bloom in Mid-September to early October.
Individual toad lily blooms have six petals that are splattered with brownish purple blobs on a white background, giving an overall lavender effect. It’s from these spots that some English gardener made the connection with toads and burdened the lovely plant with its unfortunate moniker.
Above the petals, the anthers extend outward and surround the three-branched stigma, giving the sexual part of the flower the look of the octopus ride at the county fair, but of course somewhat smaller. If pollination occurs early enough before frost, an erect capsule will form.
Tricyrtis seems to be one of those plants that got misplaced in the plant shuffle of the 20th century but seems to have been recently rediscovered. While Bailey and other garden writers described it almost 100 years ago, nobody seemed to carry it until recent years. About 1990, Wayside gardens began featuring the plant, and today it’s fairly common in garden centers and nurseries. Dan Heims, a West Coast propagator, lists almost 40 cultivars of the various species.
Toad lilies must be grown in the shade. They are excellent companion plants to hostas and other inhabitants of deep shade. Fertile, well drained, uniformly moist organic soils are most to their liking, but they will tolerate lesser soils so long as they don’t contain too much clay. Extended droughts will cause tip and marginal leaf burning. While the foliage will die with the first hard freeze, they are perfectly winter hardy to at least US Zone 5a. New plants can be had by springtime division or by terminal cuttings taken in the spring from new growth. Slugs occasionally mar the beauty of the foliage but are not usually serious.
All parts of this plant are poisonous if ingested. 24 – 36″ in height, with lovely green foliage throughout the growing season. My Toad lilies were first planted about 4 years ago. The original planting was perhaps 1 to 2 feet in diameter, but it has now spread out and takes up a 3 foot long by 2 foot wide space.
Gardeners, Plant and Nature lovers can join in every Sunday, visit As the Garden Grows for more information.
by Tricia
Have you planted your Spring Bulbs Yet?
Bulbs are easy to grow and are a wonderful choice for the garden. They take up little space and provide a burst of color at a time when your border, or garden, can be flagging.
Firstly ensure that the bulbs that you purchase are healthy and free of disease. Avoid misshapen bulbs, any that look dry and withered or with areas of mold showing. These will not grow, but, worse, they also have the potential to spread disease to your existing bulbs.
If you are buying for container planting, large bulbs will produce more flowers. Smaller bulbs are perfectly fine for mass planting in the border.
Many smaller bulbs such as fritillaria are also more successful when bought in containers- always check that these moisture loving and other woodland bulbs have not dried out when buying.
Most bulbs come from the Mediterranean regions and enjoy free-draining, sunny positions. Some woodland bulbs do not. Erythronium (Dog’s Tooth Violets), Trilliums, Anemone nemerosa, Galanthus (Swnodrops) and the popular Arisaemas all need humus rich soil and cooler, shadier conditions.
Spring flowering bulbs are planted in autumn, autumn flowering bulbs are planted in spring. The planting technique is similar.
Narcissi should be planted by the end of March. You can plant later but the flowers will not be as prolific as the bulbs will have started into premature growth. Tulips can be planted a month later. Containers of bulbs can be planted later than bulbs in the ground as containers tend to warm earlier and the bulbs come into flower before those in the ground.
Plant mail-order bulbs of pot them straight away. Don’t try to keep them dry for long periods.
Preparing to Plant
Prepare the border by digging in some well-rotted compost or adding a fertilizer such as blood and bone. Do not plant bulbs directly on top of fresh manures or partially rotted compost- the decomposition of these materials may well affect and infect your bulbs.
Make the planting hole about twice the depth of the recommended planting depth, then fill to the required level. This gives a good, fertile and friable soil for the bulb roots to grow into and you will see a measurable difference in the flowers.
Sand or grit at the base of the planting hole improves drainage, especially on heavy, clay soils, and can deter some bulb-feeding pests.
Clumps of bulbs, planted three, five or seven to a generous planting hole (don’t crowd them) look more natural than serried rows. It all depends on the look that you want.
Formal planting needs to be carefully done, using a line or wooden marker to keep lines straight. Organize you bulbs so that you don’t muddle them – a bright yellow tulip in the midst of a pink scheme screams mistake.
Mulching bulbs helps stop soil temperature fluctuations and unseasonable bursts of growth.
Planting Depths
Planting at the right depth provides the right conditions for your bulbs- too shallow and they may suffer from summer height or winter frosts.
As a rough rule of thumb bulbs should be planted at a depth equivalent to three to four times the height of the bulb. On lighter, sandy soils, go even deeper.