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Only gardening dabbling

by Trish

At this time of year (north of the Tropic of Cancer anyway) gardening usually slows down.  This is not without its compensations.  Keeping up does become less hectic.  Still, most of us do not want to really hibernate so what do we do to keep the show rolling forward?

For those of us with a large garden there is always something to do even it is just trying to keep it tidy by gathering up leaves and broken branches.  This is also the time of year to put most of any new spring bulbs into the ground.  For those of us with a small garden or a balcony a little thought can go a long way.  At this time of year we tend to be short of fresh items.  Growing a few herbs can do so much to liven up a meal without much effort.  Some of the hardier items can still be kept out of doors but others really must be kept indoors.  One word of caution, be very wary of bringing pots indoors if they have been left outside.  Insects tend to leave eggs in and around food that we like to eat.  Once the eggs come into the warmth they hatch and the resulting plague can be most unwelcome!  Of course going the other way has fewer problems and one really has to be wary of the frost in the spring.

One can have a splash of colour very cheaply by planting pansies, roses, gardenias or azaleas, in containers with compost out of doors.  These items can easily be obtained from your nearest gardening centre or even your local florist.  Throw in some cheap spring bulbs such as narcissus or daffodils and one can have a boost of colour just as the other plants are beginning to fade.

One can be a real enthusiast and start from seeds but if you are starting out it is more reliable to buy seedlings.  Nowadays just about every supermarket sells growing herbs such as parsley and basil which are beyond the seedling stage in pots.  If one wants the plant to keep on growing through the winter one should “pot up” into larger containers with good quality compost.  The plants should thrive on that for a few weeks if they are watered and have sufficient light but if you want them to thrive into the New Year and beyond you will have to give them some fertiliser.  Do harvest quite often as this helps the plant bring forth fresh growth.  Uncut and some of them will become a bit stringy.  With a bit of luck the plants will still be healthy at the end of spring and can be put into the ground outdoors for the summer!

Article written by London Florist – Flowers24hours.co.uk

 






Filed Under: Autumn Tasks, Garden Maintenance Tagged With: Bulbs, compost, containers, enthusiasts, fertiliser, garden, plants indoors, seedlings, tidy, winter

Creating the Perfect Lawn From Seed

by Trish

The perfect lawn doesn’t just happen. Rather, it is the result of hard work, patience and common sense. However, as long as the basic rules are followed, even a novice can achieve excellent results.


One of the keys to a perfect lawn grown from seed is soil preparation. First, the site has to be dug over and cleared of any detritus, stones and weeds. Weeds fall into two categories – annual weeds and perennial weeds. Annual weeds are easy to clear as they can be got rid of by hoeing or just in the act of turning over the earth and disturbing the roots. Perennial weeds are, however, a different matter, and require more care. When digging over the site, take care to remove all traces of roots as well as obvious weeds such as dandelions. The reason for this is that if you leave just one bit of root, no matter how small, it will probably return with a vengeance a few months down  the line and spoil the look of your new lawn.

When you are satisfied the area is weed-free, you can set about ensuring that you have a level surface on which to sow the seed. If you are dealing with a large area, you may find it easier to mark it out into sections and do one at a time. However you do it, it is useful to have a spirit level that you can place wherever desired to check that you haven’t created any slopes and that any hollows or bumps have been evened out. The best tool to use for flattening and levelling is a garden rake, which can also be used to break down any lumps of earth to form the fine tilth that you require.

At this point, you can take a breather, as you need to leave the prepared bed for two to three weeks to allow any weeds to germinate. When they do, treat them with a weedkiller and rake off after a couple of days. Then, apply a base dressing comprising of a micro-granular or compound granular fertilizer and leave for a few more days.

Now it’s time to sow the seed. Sowing is a relatively simple business, provided you do it on a dry, windless day, but before you even buy your seed, bear in mind what your lawn is going to be used for. If it is a family lawn that is going to bear the brunt of any manner of indignities, you require a different type of seed to someone who is going to plant a lawn for a putting or bowling green. Make sure you get the right seed mix by going to a reputable seedsman. It may cost a little more than the local garden centre, but his advice will prove to be well worth any extra cost in years to come.

Scatter the seed in the proportions (grams per square metre) advised by your seedsman or on the box. To avoid sowing unevenly and to make sure you have sufficient seed, mark the plot out into sections of one square metre with a little sand. If you don’t do that, you may run out of seed before you’ve covered the whole site.

Finally, spray the area with water. It’s vital to keep it moist over the first ten to fifteen days, so the seeds will germinate. Depending on whether you sow in the spring or the autumn, the best sowing times, you can either rely on the weather or have to do it yourself, but don’t let it dry out. When the grass has reached a height of about five centimetres, you can cut it to about two to three centimetres with a rotary mower.

Written on behalf of the seed specialists King Seeds

Filed Under: Lawn Care Tagged With: germinate, lawn, seed, soil preparation, sow seed, water, weeds

The Secret Life of Carnivorous Plants

by Trish

Carnivorous plants do exist, and they exist on every continent in the world except Antarctica. A carnivorous plant is a plant that receives most of its nutrients by consuming animals or insects.

Carnivorous plants are not the most commonly discussed plants, and many people don’t even know that they truly do exist. The following information will help you learn more about carnivorous plants and give you insight into their truly unique world.

 Carnivorous plants come in two main groups.

The Venus Flytrap, pitcher plants, and Waterwheel are three of the most popular carnivorous plants, but there are over 600 types of carnivorous plants in the world, and every single of one of them can be placed in one of two groups. These groups are based on the plant’s trapping technique. There are passive trap carnivorous plants, in which the plant receives its food by having an animal or insect get stuck to it or fall into its digestive system. And then there are active trap carnivorous plants, in which the plant actively locates its pretty in order to eat it.

 Carnivorous plants have five basic trapping techniques.

In order to survive, carnivorous plants receive most of their nutrients from animals and insects, and in order to get these nutrients, they need to trap their prey. There are five basic types of trapping mechanisms that carnivorous plants use. The first is known as a pitfall trap, in which prey is trapped in a rolled leaf and then consumed. The second trap is known as a lobster-pot trap, in which the prey is forced to move towards a plant’s digestive organ. The third trap is known as a flypaper trap, in which a plant emits a sticky substance that will trap any small animal or insect that lands on it. The fourth trap is known as a bladder trap, in which a plant has an internal vacuum-like organ that sucks prey down into its digestive system. The fifth and final trap is known as snap trap, in which plants rapidly move their leaves in order to stun or kill their prey.

 Carnivorous plants prefer nutrient dense soil.

The majority of carnivorous plants can be found in nutrient-dense soil. Most of the plants prefer to live in soggy soil, preferably near bogs. But there are some that also prefer warmer and drier areas and can be found near deserts.

 Carnivorous plants will not eat humans.

As children we always heard about man-eating plants, but carnivorous plants will not eat humans, so have no fear. For the most part, most carnivorous plants rely on small insects, such as flies and mosquitoes. If a carnivorous plant is located near water, it may eat small fish or frogs. On the rare occasion, some carnivorous plants have also been known to eat birds. But carnivorous plants pose absolutely no threat to humans, so you don’t have to fear for your life if you come across one.

 Most people don’t know much about carnivorous plants, but they truly are an amazing species. If you ever have the chance, you should try and watch a carnivorous plant in action. It truly is a sight to see.

Mariana S works for Franklin Pest Control, Indiana’s trusted exterminators.

Filed Under: In The Garden, Plant Profiles Tagged With: active, Carnivorous plants, continent, eats animals, insects, passive, pitcher plant, trap, venus flytrap, waterwheel

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