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Gift plants – tips and care guide

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Do your gift plants whither and die quickly?

Have you ever received plants from the florist or nursery – gift plants, such as ones you might get when you are in the hospital, ill at home or when a child is born or when a loved one has died? The florist plants are lovely aren’t they? An assortment of small plants that just look gorgeous together. Why then, if they are so nice do so many of them end up not doing well and dying? Is it because we get these gift plants when we have other things on our mind- such as the examples I’ve given above? if that’s true that likely leads to improper care of these plants.

As stated above improper care, incorrect light levels, and excessive heat are cited as the leading cause of failure of caring for gift plants. Often these plants are grown in greenhouses, where the night temps are cool, and the light is adequate for their needs and the air is humid. Then these plants get brought in to dry hospitals and or homes, stored in areas where light levels are too low and temperatures remain constant giving the plants little reprieve. Most people don’t expect gift plants to live long and treat them as they would gift flowers- well yes they expect them to live longer than a bouquet of roses, but not much longer.

Here’s a few tips for plants that are commonly given as gifts. These handy tips might help you keep these plants alive for a lot longer than you’re used to:

Poinsettias

Poinsettias requires bright light, and medium temperatures of 65 to 70 F. They should be kept away from drafts. Avoid temperatures below 60°F and above 75°F. Keep plants well-watered but do not over water – let the soil dry between watering. Some of the newer, long-lasting varieties can be kept attractive all winter.

Gardeners frequently ask whether they can carry their poinsettias over to bloom again next year. The quality of home-grown plants seldom equals that of commercially grown plants. However, for those who wish to try, the following procedure can be followed.

After the showy bracts fade or fall, set the plants where they will receive indirect light and temperatures around 55 to 60°F. Water sparingly during this time, just enough to keep the stems from shriveling. Cut the plant back to within 5 inches of the soil surface and re-pot in fresh soil. As soon as new growth begins, place in a well-lighted window. After danger of frost, place the pot outdoors in a partially shaded spot. Pinch the new growth back to produce a plant with several stems. Do not pinch after September 1st. About Labor Day, or as soon as the nights are cool, bring the plant indoors. Continue to grow in a sunny room with a night temperature of about 65°F. Since the poinsettia blooms only during short days, exclude artificial light, either by covering with a light-proof box each evening or placing in an unlighted room or closet for a minimum of 12 hours of darkness. Plants require full light in the daytime, so be sure to return them to a sunny window. Start the short-day treatment in mid-September to have blooms between December 1 and Christmas.

Azaleas

Azaleas require direct sunlight to remain healthy. A nighttime temperature of 60°F will prolong the period of bloom. Keep the soil constantly moist, but not soggy. If the leaves should turn yellow, the soil is not acid enough. Use any commercial acid fertilizer and follow the application instructions. Do not use softened water. When re-potting, use a potting soil high in sphagnum peat moss.

Azaleas can be planted, pot and all, in a shady spot in the garden during the summer months. Examine them frequently and keep them well-watered during dry periods. Greenhouse azaleas are not hardy,and need to be brought indoors before freezing weather.

Azaleas need a cool, rest period before they are forced into bloom. Place the plants in a room with filtered light and a temperature between 40-50°F. During this rest period, flower buds will develop. Then place in a well-lighted, warm (65°F) room around January 1 to bring them into bloom. Unless you have the proper growing conditions for the azalea, you should not attempt to carry the plants over in the house.

Gardenia

Gardenias grown indoors need special care. They demand an acid soil and should receive the same nutritional care as azaleas. Nighttime temperatures should be near 60°F and the humidity around the plant should be kept high. High temperature and low light intensity will result in flower bud drop. Gardenias are hardy in the warmest parts of Virginia, but will not reliably overwinter outside of Zone 7b.

Amaryllis

The secret of growing amaryllis is to keep the plants actively growing after they finish blooming. Keep the plants in full sun, with a nighttime temperature above 60°F. As soon as danger of frost has passed, set the plants in the garden in a semi-shaded spot and continue to water. Bring them in during the first part of September. Stop watering to allow old growth to die back, and store in a cool, dark place to rest. Your amaryllis will be ready to force again about November 1. Bring them into a warm, well lighted room and water moderately to begin a new growth and flowering cycle.

Christmas Cactus

The Christmas cactus has become increasingly popular with the development of several new varieties. At least three related species are sold in addition to a number of cultivars. All have similar cultural requirements.

The secret of good bloom is influenced by nighttime temperature and photo-period control. Christmas cacti will develop buds and bloom if given bright light, short days, and night temperatures between 55 and 65°F. Christmas cacti bloom best when somewhat pot-bound. Re-potting is necessary only about once every 3 years. Full sunlight is beneficial in midwinter, but excessively bright light during summer months can make plants look pale and yellow.

Christmas cacti require less water from October to March than they do when actively growing from April to September. A rest period is very important if plants are to bloom abundantly. Dormancy should be started about the middle of September and continued for 8 weeks. Care should be taken that the soil never becomes water-logged during the short days of winter.

Cyclamen

Cyclamens require full sunlight and a nighttime temperature between 50 and 60°F. They are heavy users of water and must be watered whenever the surface of the soil is dry. Flower buds will fail to develop if the nighttime temperature is too high or if the light levels are poor.

Cyclamen can be carried over, but as with the poinsettia, homegrown plants are seldom equal to those grown by a commercial grower. Let the leaves die back after they finish flowering. Allow resting bulbs to dry, but do not allow them to become shriveled. Repot the fleshy tuber in June with the top of the structure above the soil line. Use a slightly similar pot size each year, as cyclamens perform best when slightly pot-bound.

Gerbera Daisy

Gerbera Daisies should be considered as a short-term plant which should be replaced after 2-3 years maximum. Their showy flowers are long-lasting, and plants should be kept in a temperature range of 40 to 70°F when in flower. They respond well under bright light, with limited full sunlight exposure. Re-potting can be done in spring when dividing plants in a peat moss-based potting mix. Allow the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings. Susceptible to thrips and mites.

Calceolaria

Calceolarias require bright light, but no direct sunlight in order to flower optimally. They should be grown in a fairly cool environment with a 50°F daytime temperature and a 45°F night temperature. Plants should be kept moist at all times and should not be allowed to dry, but be careful that soil is not soggy. After flowers have faded, discard the plant.

Cineraria

Cinerarias require bright light with a minimal amount of direct sunlight. To prolong the flowering period, plants should be kept in a cool environment at a temperature of about 50°F. The soil or medium should be kept consistently moist at all times. Once flowers have faded, the plants should be discarded.

Kalanchoe

Kalanchoes are a diverse group of plants grown as either flowering or foliage plants. They should be grown under bright light, but short periods in direct sun (especially in winter) will be acceptable. Normal room temperature, at a minimum of 50°F, will promote good growth and flower development. Plants should be watered sparingly in summer and allowed to dry out somewhat during winter when at rest. Some cultivars are difficult to bring into flowering for a second cycle, and should be discarded after flowering. If re-potting, an all-purpose soil or potting mix can be used. All kalanchoes are short-day plants requiring a minimum of 14 to 18 hours of uninterrupted darkness for 4 to 6 weeks to initiate flowers.

You know what’s really odd? I can barely keep African Violets alive, the plant that most people have no trouble with, yet I’ve kept Poinsettias, gardenia, Amaryllis, and Christmas Cactus going for years and years. I guess I do my best work with temperamental plants.






Indoor Ferns

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Growing and selecting ferns for indoors

Ferns will add interest to any room with their soft delicate appearance. The most familiar and popular varieties for indoor use are those native to tropical settings.

Outdoors, in natural conditions ferns grow on the forest floor in shady conditions, which means that indoors, ferns thrive in filtered, indirect light from northern exposures in the summer months, and an east facing window in the winter months. Fern enjoy temperature ranges of 65 to 80 F, with a drop of 5 to 10 degrees F overnight.

The root system of ferns are fibrous, meaning they are near the surface. This limits the size of pot in which you can plant your ferns into as they do best in shallow post of no more than 4 to 6 inches deep, larger depths for large ferns. Ferns need a well draining soil mix that contains a large amount of humus. A mix of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part loamy garden soil, and 1 part perlite works well.

Fertilize ferns on a regular basis, but only use 1/4 to 1/2 of the manufacturers recommendations as the ferns shallow root system could be damaged easily if over fertilized.

Soil should be kept evenly moist. Over watering will cause the fronds to turn yellow and wilt because the fibrous roots will be unable to function due to the lack of oxygen. Plants kept too moist might end up with root rot, and once damaged the plant might not recover. If you were to look at the root system you’ll see that a healthy root system has light brown to whitish growing tips. Dead or injured roots will be dark brown or black.

Ferns can also suffer when under watered. Under watering will cause wilting of the fronds. If you notice this symptom, feel the soil and if it’s dry water immediately. You can also thoroughly soak the pot by submerging it in water. Bubbles will come up from the dry soil. keep submerged until the bubbling cease, then drain.

Recommended indoor ferns:

  • Boston Fern (Nephrolepis) – long delicate fronds,light green foliage, variety of sizes, good for hanging basket. Propagate by division, runners or spores.
  • Birdsnest Fern (Asplenium) – does not resemble a typical fern since the fronds are broad, leathery, and shiny green. Each leaf is a single sprout from the roots and grows up to 2 feet long and 10 inches wide. This bold plant looks nice an any home or office setting.
  • Staghorn Fern (Platycerium) – Wide, flat leaves and resembles a stag’s horns. It is an unusual looking fern but easy to grow in sphagnum moss supported on a piece of wood. Although it is attractive in any room where there is good lighting, its unusual “container” is difficult to water in most locations so a greenhouse or plant room is ideal. This fern is slow growing but can grow up to 3 or 4 feet. Reproduce by division.
  • Table Fern (Pteris) – has medium green foliage. Some types have creamy white markings in the center of each leaflet. Depending on the variety, fronds will grow up to 3 feet. This fern fits into any indoor landscape. Propagate by spores or division.
  • Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum) – has lacy foliage with small, fan-shaped leaves, light to medium green in color. It grows rapidly, with some types reaching up to 26 inches in height. This fern requires high humidity. It will grow outdoors up until first frost and there are Maidenhair ferns native to Virginia which are hardy even in the mountains. Reproduce by spores and division.
  • Rabbit’s Foot or Ball Fern (Davallia) is excellent for hanging baskets because the rhizomes (fleshy stems) will grow around the sides of pots. It does well in shade and grows up to 18 inches. Reproduces by division or spores.

Basics of caring for house plants

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Purchasing a house plant

Caring for houseplants must start the moment you buy them. Because many are native to hot or tropical climates, even the slightest exposure to cold can prove fatal. So, when you make your purchase at the garden centre or nursery, now that the cool weather has set in, ask for the plant to be put in a box or bag, or bring something yourself that you can protect the plant with for the journey home.

Most plants come with a label giving, often very basic, care advice. Some don’t even list the plants name which can be extremely frustrating for me. I try not to buy unlabeled plants but sometimes I just can’t resist and must have whatever plant I’m looking at. If I do purchase an unlabeled plant I try to search for plants that look like it on the internet, and I’m often successful in figuring it out.

Heat and Light

Read the label carefully on your plant before you purchase it. Do not buy a plant that needs bright light if you can’t give it a spot with bright light. It will only end in disappointment. When you get home, choose an appropriate spot for your new houseplant and leave it there. Like any other living thing it needs to settle and adjust to its surroundings. Occasionally a new plant will drop some leaves if your home is warmer or cooler than it’s used to. It will also do this if the lighting is different than where it had been before too. Avoid drafts or anywhere subject to dips in temperature, and steer clear of poorly lit areas. Lack of light can sometimes be fatal, but more often results in weak, leggy growth and a lack of flowering.

Flowering plants and those with variegated foliage generally need more light than plain green foliage plants. Cacti, succulents and carnivorous plants all need full sun, but they can be scorched by strong midday rays if they are grown right next to the glass of a south-facing window. Cunningly placed mirrors will come in useful to provide orchids with the bright indirect light they require.

Humidity

Humidity is very important to the health of most houseplants. In the winter our heating systems keep temperatures up, but also dry out the air – For many plants you will need to mist them several times each week in order to help replace the moisture in the air. You might want to purchase a humidifier to add moisture to the air in your house. There are large ones that can humidify the majority of a house. Other smaller ones are more suitable for humidifying a single room. If you have a room or two that you keep the majority of your plants in during the winter a small humidifier might be suitable for you.

Watering

The majority of house plants need to have slightly damp soil at all times, but this does not mean that you should water it every day. Over watering is the leading cause of houseplant death. It should be neither soggy nor dry. After watering, check that the compost is damp all the way through, with no surplus water, which you must ensure is drained away. Tap water is fine for most plants; it contains chalk that the plants need. However, orchids, carnivorous plants, azaleas and gardenias hate chalk, so use rain water or put tap water through a filter jug first, then boil it in the kettle, leaving it to cool before use.

Feeding

The most advisable method is to mix a long lasting, slow-release feed into the compost when potting or re-potting. Specialist plants, such as cacti and succulents, orchids and bromeliads, need very little food, while carnivorous plants do not need feeding because they catch their own grub.

Pests

All houseplants, no matter how well cared for, are susceptible to pests. Some of them are microscopic, so if your houseplant doesn’t look as healthy as it should, give it the once over with a magnifying glass. Look in leaf axils for mealybug, which looks like tufts of white fluff, and check on stems for tiny limpet-like scale insect. Inspect around young shoots and buds for greenfly.

You might not spot red spider mites because they are tiny to the point of being almost invisible. But you may well spot the damage they do as they suck the sap and cause premature leaf-drop, leaving groups of tiny pale dots on young leaves.

Compost can become home to jumping fleas called springtails (especially in over-watered peat-based composts) and vine weevil, whose grubs devour roots, tubers and bulbs. Spraying with an appropriate systemic treatment from your garden centre should eradicate nasties. Nematodes – minute parasites that kill the bugs – are also very effective.

When I notice pests on my plants such as spider mites or white fly I spray the plants with a mix of water and one or two drops of dish washing detergent. This soapy water mix often does wonders. I very rarely resort to using pesticides.

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