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Lovely Canna – over-wintering Cannas

by Tricia

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Canna Tropicana
Canna Tropicana

I’ve been growing Cannas in my garden for the last five years. I guess you could say I’ve been growing them ever since I started my garden.

I enjoy their large tropical leaves and lovely flowers. Once they grow enough to start blooming each summer they usually don’t stop until the weather begins to cool substantially in late September or early October.

I should mention that I grow my cannas in pots so that I can easily move them indoors in the winter. The pots are placed directly into my garden beds in late spring or early summer to grow among the many other plants.

As the weather begins to cool in the fall I bring my many cannas into my enclosed back porch. I spray them using a spray bottle with a few drops of liquid detergent added to the water to help remove any bugs that have hung on to the plants. Then I let my cannas slowly die down and go dormant.

Once the cannas are dormant I bring them indoors and keep them in my basement in a cool fairly dark place. Of course I bring the cannas indoors if the outdoor temperatures drop too low before the cannas have gone dormant. When that happens I just let them finish going dormant in the cool dark basement.

I’d say that the cannas are always in our basement by early November each year. There they will stay until the temperatures warm enough to place them in the back porch once more, and then outdoors. This means that they are usually kept indoors until the end of April or so.

While the cannas are in the basement I check on them periodically and give them a small watering every three to four weeks. I can assess the health of the tubers when I check on them, and keep them alive yet in a dormant state by only watering them when they are very dry.

Around mid-February each year I move the cannas closer to one of the basement windows so that they can get some filtered light. I also begin to water them approximately every two weeks.

They quickly come out of dormancy and begin to grow new leaves.

At this time, three of the five cannas that I have in my basement have a fair number of leaves. They might have started growing faster this year! Two are still dormant and I’m hoping that they will come out of dormancy soon.

Most people that grow cannas in cool climates either buy new tubers each year, or dig the tubers up in the fall and store them in sawdust or a dry substrate for the winter. They are stored in a cool dry place.

I tried that method during my first year of gardening and lost all of my cannas! The following year I began my little experiment of growing them in pots and bringing the pots indoors just as I’ve described above. I’ve successfully kept the cannas alive each year with this method and I’m quite happy to continue using this technique.

Now that the canna leaves are beginning to grow I know that Spring can’t be too far off. Within a month or less my crocus’ will be coming up in the lawn, and other spring bulbs such as tulips will be starting to awaken and grow. I can’t wait.

How do you over-winter your exotic plants? I’d love to hear if you have any interesting methods.

Gardeners, Plant and Nature lovers can join in every Sunday, visit As the Garden Grows for more information.






Filed Under: Bulbs, Garden Tips, Green Thumb Sunday, Photography Tagged With: Bulbs, Canna, canna care, cool climate, Garden Tips, Green Thumb Sunday, over wintering, over wintering canna, Photography, tropical plant care

What is a bulb anyway?

by Tricia

Bulb, Corm, tuber, Rhizome! What does it all mean?

The term “bulb” is commonly used to refer to the thickened underground storage organ produced by some plants. However, many of what we call bulbs may be corms, tubers, tuberous roots or rhizomes.

You might think of a bulb as you would a chicken egg. The outside of a “true bulb” is a compressed stem (basal plate) bearing a growing point or flower bud and enclosed by thick, fleshy scales called bulb scales. Much like the egg’s shell protects the growing chick enclosed inside the egg.

Some true bulbs such as narcissus, amaryllis and tulip are protected from drying and mechanical injury by dry and membranous outer scales called a tunic. Other true bulbs such as lilies are called non-truncate or scaly because their outer scales are succulent and separate, giving the bulb a scaly appearance.

A corm is a solid mass of stem tissue with a basal plate on the bottom and a terminal shoot bud on top. In addition to the terminal shoot bud, axillary or lateral buds are produced at each of the nodes along the sides of the corm. In the event that the terminal bud should be injured or otherwise prevented from growing, these lateral buds are capable of producing a shoot. The solid stem structure of the corm is protected against injury and water loss by dry leaf bases that are similar to the tunic that enclose true bulbs. Gladiolus and watsonia are typical cormous plants.

Tubers such as caladium and gloriosa are thickened underground stems with many buds (eyes) present in regular order over their surfaces. Unlike true bulbs and corms which are covered with dried leaves or scales, tubers are covered with a tough skin. Tuberous roots such as dahlia and ranunculus are true roots and lack nodes and internodes. Buds are present only at the crown or stem end of the root.

Rhizomes are thickened horizontal stems growing along or below the surface of the ground. Underground rhizomes such as canna and calla produce roots on their lower surface and send shoots above ground.

The term bulb will probably always be used when referring to plants that produce underground storage organs.

Filed Under: Bulbs, In The Garden, Plant Profiles Tagged With: Bulb, Canna, Corm, dahlia, flower, gladiolus, In The Garden, rhizome, tissue, true bulb, tuber, tulip

You search – I try to give you answers

by Tricia

I’ve been checking my stats regularly and I’ve noticed that people are getting some search results for my site.

I thought I’d take a minute and try to answer some of the questions that I’ve seen in your recent searches:

Iris dover beach

The Iris Dover beach is a German Iris.

It blooms for me in my US Zone 5b, or Canadian zone 6b garden in mid to late June. It has the most beautiful light blue blooms that I’ve ever seen. German Iris’ like to be planted shallowly. They will not bloom if planted too deeply, just the same as Peonies. Once the blooms fade away cut off the stems so the plants can put their energy into building up strength for next years blooms. Divide the plant in early spring.

Daylily Sammy Russel

I actually have a lovely photo of this daylily on my other site Tricia’s Musings. The daylily Sammy Russel was hybridized in 1951 by Sammy Russell. It grows to a height of 24″ to 36″ and it is hard from US zone 3a to Zone 9b. It thrives in Full sun to partial shade. It’s blooms are 3″ to 4.5″ in diameter, and for me it’s a lovely shade of rich maroon. Divide the root ball in early spring to propagate.

Rose of Sharon tree

I’ve written about the Rose of Sharon tree in the past. A full write up on the care and blooming habits can be found in the link I’ve listed above. It’s September now and my Rose of Sharon began blooming near the middle of July and it’s still blooming. I think this was it’s longest bloom period ever.

Hosta propagation from leaves

In my brief search I couldn’t find any information about this topic. I suppose one could clip off a leaf or two and put it in some water (perhaps water amended with a rooting hormone) or in some damp growing medium and wait for roots to grow. Would the new plant be true to the hybrid that it likely came from? Perhaps, perhaps not. It’s said that Hosta’s grown from seed often are not the same as the parent plant. This is probably due to hybridization.

I can tell you that the easiest way to propagate hosta is by division. They can be divided in the early spring just after they have started sprouting shoots, or in the late summer to fall. Dig up the plant and simply take a sharp shovel or knife and split the clump in half. It’s that easy.


Propagating tropicanna plants

I’m assuming that the person searching for this term was wanting to find out how to propagate a Tropicana Canna. Like all Cannas the Tropicana develops several rhizomes below the soil surface. These rhizomes are what each new plant and leaf stalk grows out of. For gardeners in zones lower than 7 we must bring our canna plants inside for the winter as they are only hardy in zones 8 to 11 (some say zone 7 but to be safe I’ll keep it at zone 8 ).

I store my canna rhizomes in a cool spot in the basement. I keep the rhizomes in a mixture of vermeculite. Some people store them in saw dust. The best time to divide your cannas for propagation is shortly after you dig them up to bring the rhizomes inside for winter storage. Simply break the clumps apart. If you are lucky enough to live in a warm zone and you don’t have to dig up your cannas in the cooler months you can dig up your plants and divide the roots and rhizomes and then replant. The best months for those in warmer climates to do this would be near the end of the cool season.

Light requirements of raspberry bush

I’ve wrote about the care and growing of Raspberry bushes back in July. Raspberry bushes need full sun. It’s said that they can do well in partial shade (bright shade I’m assuming) but full sun is best.

Stay tuned for more garden tips derived from peoples search terms.

Filed Under: Garden Buzz, Garden Tips, Plant health, Questions and Answers Tagged With: Canna, day lily, Garden Tips, Gardening tips, Hosta, Iris, Raspberry bush, Rose of Sharon, search terms

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