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Give your houseplants a summer vacation

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I know it’s almost winter here in North America but it’s going to be summer soon In Australia and New Zealand … plus there’s some great tips here ..

Summer is always a busy time for gardeners … we have to fertilize our plants, prepare garden beds, weed, mulch, buy more plants- well if you are me you do, and once the plants start to grow there could even be produce to pick.

We spend so much time focusing on our gardens throughout the summer that at times we might end up neglecting our house plants. I try to move a number of my houseplants outdoors in the summer time. They get an added boost of unfiltered sunlight, natural rain water and regular waterings when we are watering the rest of our gardens.

When the weather becomes warm and there is no more danger of frost you can bring your plants out and unless they are very tender leave them out all night long as well. Night time temps should be over 50 F in order to leave them out all night otherwise they will be damaged by the cold.

Our houseplants are not used to the bright bright light outdoors so at first they should be placed in lightly shaded spots. If they are true sun lovers you can move them to brighter areas once they have acclimated to the area you first put them in.

Remember that potted plants may topple in the wind so make sure they are in protected areas when finding a summer spot for them. You’ll also need to check that they don’t dry out- as being outdoors exposed to dry warm air and winds will make they dry out faster than they do indoors.

Watering can be simplified by sinking the pots directly into the soil in flower borders or into a larger container filled with moist peat moss. Less water will be lost than from free-standing individual pots, and the plants will draw some moisture from the surrounding media.

Continue fertilizing house plants that are summering outside as you would for indoor plants. The high light levels will allow rapid growth if nutrient and water needs are met. If any of the plants are approaching a stage where repotting is in order, perform this task before the summer so recovery will occur while the plant is growing rapidly.

Watch for insect damage and treat as you would indoors if any occurs. Placing some window screening in the bottom of the pots will prevent pests such as sowbugs from entering the pot. At the end of the summer, soak the plants in water for fifteen minutes to drown or drive out any insects that have taken up residence.

Return the plants to the house by repeating the process of acclimatization in reverse. Move the plants to progressively shadier spots so they can get used to lower light levels before coming indoors. Be sure to complete the return trip before nights become cool.






Growing house plants from seed?

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As you’ve probably gathered from my last two seed related posts, you don’t need a greenhouse and misting system to successfully propagate house plants from seed. It is really fairly simple and inexpensive.

A number of popular foliage and flowering house plants are commonly propagated from seed, including the umbrella tree Brassaia, False aralia Dizygotheca, tree philodendron P. Selloum, palms, cacti, succulents, geraniums, begonias, and impatiens.

How to Plant Seeds

Unlike seeds of many temperate woody plants, which require a storage period of moist chilling(stratification) prior to planting, the seeds of tropical plants should be sown as soon as they are mature. House plant seeds may be sown in any container with drainage holes. Use a sterilized medium which is low in soluble salts such as milled sphagnum moss, vermiculite, or a mixture of equal parts sand and peat moss. Bottom heat (between 70 and 75 degrees F) aids the germination of seeds and growth of small seedlings. Soil heating cables and mats are available in several sizes to fit individual needs. Inexpensive models for seed flats are usually preset at 72 degrees F. Larger ones, for greenhouses benches and outdoor hotbeds, may be thermostatically controlled.

Sow seeds sparingly and as evenly as you can. Seedlings that are bunched together will have poor air circulation and are likely to fall victim to damping-off, a fungal disease which attacks the seedling stems at the soil surface. If the seeds are so small that they are dust-like or powdery, sow them on top of a moist medium – do not cover them. If they are larger, the rule of thumb is to cover them to twice their diameter. When working with seeds the size of coleus, impatiens, and gloxinia, simply press them into the surface of the planting medium with the palm of your hand.

Label each container with the variety planted and the date. This is a handy reference when you want to determine how long it takes certain plants to grow from seed to maturity. If you want to experiment with different growing methods, be sure to add other information to the label, such as growing medium used, temperature, mist or bottom watering, or depth of planting.

With nearly all seeds, it is imperative to keep the medium moist, but not soaked. Containers with drainage holes can be soaked in a sink or shallow tray of water. Those without drainage can be moistened by misting the surface with tepid water or carefully adding the needed water with a tablespoon. If you are working with very small seeds, it is a good idea to put a clear glass or plastic cover on the container to maintain the moisture, since they germinate better in high humidity. If too much water is added, leave the cover off until the surface appears to have dried out somewhat.

Care of Seedlings

When seedlings show above the soil, they should be moved to brighter light. The first one or two leaves that sprout from most seeds are cotyledons, which nourish the stem tip and the foliage leaves which follow. Until the foliage leaves appear, do not allow direct sunlight to reach the seedlings for more than a few minutes daily. You can determine the amount of light seedlings need by learning the light requirements of the mature plant. For example, geranium seedlings need more sunlight than rex begonia seedlings. An ideal place for seedlings is 3 or 4 inches below a pair of 40-watt fluorescent tubes.

When seedlings are started in a high-humidity container, it is necessary for them to go through a hardening-off period to become accustomed to the drier conditions of the open air. Leave the container’s cover off for an hour or two each day after the sprouts appear. As the seedlings progress, leave it off all day or night, finally removing it entirely. Be careful not to let the growing medium dry out during this process.

Transplant seedlings before they begin to crowd each other, usually as soon as the first true leaves develop. They can go into small, individual pots or several seedlings can be transplanted into one flat or a large pot to save space. As they grow, the largest ones are transplanted into separate containers. Use your fingers and a flat instrument like a nail file or butter knife to separate and lift tiny seedlings. Handle them by their root balls or leaves; it is very easy and usually fatal to crush the stems. Reset them at approximately the same depth as they have been growing and firm the soil gently around the roots. Water thoroughly from below.

Until the plants are established, keep them in a warm, bright place, but out of direct sunlight. Create a high-humidity environment, if possible – it is especially beneficial to plants at this stage. As soon as seedlings begin active growth, fertilize every two weeks with diluted liquid plant food. If the container does not list a strength recommendation for seedlings, mix the fertilizer at one-third to one-half the rate suggested for house plants.

Lovely Flowering Houseplants

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Many people have leafy green houseplants here and there within their homes, but many do not attempt to grow flowering houseplants. Why is this? Do they think that they plants are too difficult? I’ve found that some flowering houseplants are easier to keep than some of the tropical green plants that I’ve butchered over the years. Amaryllis come to mind instantly as a fairly easy winter blooming plant that you could have indoors.

I always find it almost magical when some of my houseplants begin to bloom- particularly if it’s in the dead of winter. I eagerly watch as the first buds appear, and then as the bud grows and begins to bloom. I’m amazed every time. Perhaps I’m easily amazed but I think it’s almost miraculous.

Some house plants that tend to be easy to care for, and that will bloom readily are African violets. I must admit that I’ve only had success with one plant – and it died this summer after surviving for two years. I think I gave it too much care, because I know many other non gardeners who’s African violets are thriving and I’m sure they get very little care.

Unlike many plants, African Violets do not have a dormant period. If they are happy, and conditions are satisfactory they continue to grow and bloom year round. One of the most common causes for African violets failure to bloom is insufficient light. They need to be near a bright sunny area to thrive.

The African Violet has several relatives that make good flowering houseplants as well. For example, the Episcia are fibrous-rooted trailers grown for metallic-toned and delicately veined foliage.

Chznet has fringed white flowers with purple spots, and Acajou has bright red flowers. Oh the possibilities! Neither of these plants need as much light as as African Violets, and both can make attractive hanging basket plants as well.

Miniature Sinningia are lovely in terrariums or in small pots of 2 to 3 inches in diameter. Flower colors include red, lavender, and white. Cape primrose give home owners and outstanding show of flowers, and hybrids are available in several colours such as white, purple and pink. These plants enjoy semi shaded window sills and grow about 10 inches tall.

You may be interested in growing exotic flowers in your home. Bromeliads are easy and popular in the last few years. The Pineapple, aechmea and Billbergia are popular and reward the owners with lovely colour combinations of pink bracts and blue flowers which last for weeks.

Other flowering plants that you might consider are:

Abutilon (Flowering Maple) – large hollyhock like blooms of orange, pink, white, red or salmon. Shrub like, needs bright light.

Aphelandra or Zebra Plant – Shiny, deep-green leaves veined white. needs filtered or diffused sunlight.

Stapelia or Starfish Flower – Large Star-shaped flowers, velvety brown in color. Unfortunately the flowers smell like dead meat, and this plant is sometimes called the Carrion flower.

Plants that are often grown outdoors in the summer and then abandoned to the elements during the cool winter months can make good indoor plants as well if they are given sufficient light to survive- Fuchsia, Impatiens, Begonia, Geranium, Lantana, and Browalia do well. Care should be used to avoid bringing in insect pests when you move these plants indoors.

Sometimes people get plants such as Poinsettias, Easter Lilies, Cyclamen, and Cineraria to survive – I’ve had the first three in my home for the last five years myself – but they can be difficult as they need periods of cooling and adequate humidity to survive.

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