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Growing house plants from seed?

by Tricia

As you’ve probably gathered from my last two seed related posts, you don’t need a greenhouse and misting system to successfully propagate house plants from seed. It is really fairly simple and inexpensive.

A number of popular foliage and flowering house plants are commonly propagated from seed, including the umbrella tree Brassaia, False aralia Dizygotheca, tree philodendron P. Selloum, palms, cacti, succulents, geraniums, begonias, and impatiens.

How to Plant Seeds

Unlike seeds of many temperate woody plants, which require a storage period of moist chilling(stratification) prior to planting, the seeds of tropical plants should be sown as soon as they are mature. House plant seeds may be sown in any container with drainage holes. Use a sterilized medium which is low in soluble salts such as milled sphagnum moss, vermiculite, or a mixture of equal parts sand and peat moss. Bottom heat (between 70 and 75 degrees F) aids the germination of seeds and growth of small seedlings. Soil heating cables and mats are available in several sizes to fit individual needs. Inexpensive models for seed flats are usually preset at 72 degrees F. Larger ones, for greenhouses benches and outdoor hotbeds, may be thermostatically controlled.

Sow seeds sparingly and as evenly as you can. Seedlings that are bunched together will have poor air circulation and are likely to fall victim to damping-off, a fungal disease which attacks the seedling stems at the soil surface. If the seeds are so small that they are dust-like or powdery, sow them on top of a moist medium – do not cover them. If they are larger, the rule of thumb is to cover them to twice their diameter. When working with seeds the size of coleus, impatiens, and gloxinia, simply press them into the surface of the planting medium with the palm of your hand.

Label each container with the variety planted and the date. This is a handy reference when you want to determine how long it takes certain plants to grow from seed to maturity. If you want to experiment with different growing methods, be sure to add other information to the label, such as growing medium used, temperature, mist or bottom watering, or depth of planting.

With nearly all seeds, it is imperative to keep the medium moist, but not soaked. Containers with drainage holes can be soaked in a sink or shallow tray of water. Those without drainage can be moistened by misting the surface with tepid water or carefully adding the needed water with a tablespoon. If you are working with very small seeds, it is a good idea to put a clear glass or plastic cover on the container to maintain the moisture, since they germinate better in high humidity. If too much water is added, leave the cover off until the surface appears to have dried out somewhat.

Care of Seedlings

When seedlings show above the soil, they should be moved to brighter light. The first one or two leaves that sprout from most seeds are cotyledons, which nourish the stem tip and the foliage leaves which follow. Until the foliage leaves appear, do not allow direct sunlight to reach the seedlings for more than a few minutes daily. You can determine the amount of light seedlings need by learning the light requirements of the mature plant. For example, geranium seedlings need more sunlight than rex begonia seedlings. An ideal place for seedlings is 3 or 4 inches below a pair of 40-watt fluorescent tubes.

When seedlings are started in a high-humidity container, it is necessary for them to go through a hardening-off period to become accustomed to the drier conditions of the open air. Leave the container’s cover off for an hour or two each day after the sprouts appear. As the seedlings progress, leave it off all day or night, finally removing it entirely. Be careful not to let the growing medium dry out during this process.

Transplant seedlings before they begin to crowd each other, usually as soon as the first true leaves develop. They can go into small, individual pots or several seedlings can be transplanted into one flat or a large pot to save space. As they grow, the largest ones are transplanted into separate containers. Use your fingers and a flat instrument like a nail file or butter knife to separate and lift tiny seedlings. Handle them by their root balls or leaves; it is very easy and usually fatal to crush the stems. Reset them at approximately the same depth as they have been growing and firm the soil gently around the roots. Water thoroughly from below.

Until the plants are established, keep them in a warm, bright place, but out of direct sunlight. Create a high-humidity environment, if possible – it is especially beneficial to plants at this stage. As soon as seedlings begin active growth, fertilize every two weeks with diluted liquid plant food. If the container does not list a strength recommendation for seedlings, mix the fertilizer at one-third to one-half the rate suggested for house plants.






Filed Under: House Plants Tagged With: grow from seed, House Plants, Houseplants, humidity, light, propogate from seed, transplant

Controlling house plant pests

by Tricia

In many parts of North America and other areas of the world gardeners have traded their backyard gardening for indoor houseplant gardening. Bringing some plants in from outdoors, and tending to others that are indoors all year round.

Every home owner who keeps houseplants will encounter, at one time or another the dreaded house plant pests. Little bugs that you can often barely see that start to suck on the leaves or burrow into the stems and cause parts of the plant or the leaves to die. If measures aren’t taken to eradicate these pests quickly a whole plant could die.

There are only five major groups of insect and mite pests on house plants, they are very difficult to control and highly persistent, once established. Not only that- but many types of house plants re sensitive to pesticides when they are used on them, plus pesticides used indoors can be quite dangerous to the home owner, small children and household pets.

The three steps to controlling pests are:

Step 1 . Know how to recognize at least the major insect and mite pests that attack foliage plants: aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, whiteflies, and spider mites.

Step 2. Prevent the introduction of pests into the home or existing plant specimen arrangements:
a) buy or propagate only pest-free plants;
b) keep new plants separated from other plants for 4 to 6 weeks to see if any pest problems develop;
c) carefully inspect all plants at least weekly for signs of insects and mites.

Step 3. If a plant is found to be infested with insects or mites:
a) isolate the plant from other plants;
b) correctly identify the pest;
c) determine and apply appropriate control measures;
d) keep the plant separate from others until all evidence of infestation is eliminated, which may be several weeks or more.

Take Control

There are three popular general methods for treating house plants infestations: physically removing the pests and or washing the plant, general purpose ready to use sprays, and chemical concentrates for preparing spray mixtures.

Physical removal is easy enough for large pests- slugs, caterpillars etc.. Pests can also be swabbed with a small brush or cotton tipped applicator moistened with rubbing alcohol.

You may also opt to rinse or wash plants with a diluted mix of dish detergent soap or an insecticidal soap. Sometimes just placing a plant in your shower stall and gently spraying them with lukewarm water on the tops and undersides of the leaves is enough to rid the plant of an infestation, plus give it a good drink and flush it’s substrate at the same time.

Often the soap sprays or rinses need to be repeated over a period of time to totally rid the plant of pests. I also try to isolate plants that I find are infested – I’ll move them several feet away from uninfected plants at the very least, and often into a totally different room if it’s possible. There’s nothing worse than having several plants infested with pests at the same time.

In your garden centres you’ll find ready to use sprays, but if you go searching for one of these types of sprays make sure it’s labeled that it’s safe for use on house plants. Always read the labels and precautions on any of the ready made sprays that you are planning on using as some sprays are effective only for certain types of insects, while others are only effective when the pests are in certain stages of life.

Whiteflies are very difficult to control with standard sprays, but easily controlled with other sprays that are made specifically for whiteflies. Be sure to follow directions. There are many individual products on the market; be sure to read the label to determine which one to use.

Chemical concentrations are available to mix with water for application with a hand sprayer or mister. Insecticides and/or miticides are available separately or in mixtures. Generally insecticides will not control mites, and miticides will not control insects. Only the appropriate pesticide is needed. The wrong one will not be effective.

Another way to prevent infestations in the first place is to care for the plant properly. Many people end up having white fly and mite infestations on their plants in the winter time. The air is dry in the house and the plants are not kept moist enough. Misting the plants with water sprays a couple times of day or keeping the room they are in adequately humidified should help lower the chance of pest infestations in some plants.

Filed Under: House Plants Tagged With: backyard, bed, caterpillar, control pests, foliage, garden, gardener, gardeners, gardening, home, House, house plant, House Plants, houseplant, humid, humidity, infestation, insect, insecticidal soap, insecticide, leaves, mite, North America, outdoor, outdoors, plants, problems, slug, white fly, whiteflies

Benefits of using mulch on the garden

by Tricia

I went out of town this past weekend and I was a little worried about my garden.

You see, we are going through a heat wave here in Toronto. Friday’s temps were 31 Celsius (87.8), Saturday and Sunday were 32 (89.6 F) and 34 C (93.2 F), and yesterday ended up reaching 35 C (95 F). Now those temps wouldn’t necessarily be so bad if it were dry heat, but here in Toronto we seem to get a lot of humidity. If you add in the humidity factor the temps were well over 40 Celsius (104 F) each day. Those temps are enough to make me wilt so it’s no wonder I was worried about my plants, especially all the new ones that I finally planted last week.

I should have watered the garden on Friday seeing as we were leaving early Saturday morning but I was very tired for some reason. Not watering added to my worry. I was sure I’d come home to wilted or dead plants. Lucky for me it did rain sometime on Saturday.

I’m sure the shredded red cedar mulch that I put on the garden helped too. We covered all the bare spots between the plants with two to three inches of cedar mulch. This helps keep the weeds down. Actually- it makes them virtually non-existent. It also helps keep the soil moist too. Well, it won’t if you don’t water at all, but if you give your garden a good watering every two or three days the soil should stay slightly moist and your plants will be happy. As long as I do a good deep watering I don’t have to water every day, even during a heat wave- apparently.

We use the red coloured mulch because 1. we like the look of it, and 2. because in studies it was said to help tomatoes grow faster. We do grow some tomatoes in one corner of our garden and they do do well.

I even put some mulch on my potted plants to help them retain moisture.

Do you use mulch on your garden beds? If you do, what kind do you use? And have you noticed any difference in your garden since you started using it?

Filed Under: Garden Maintenance, Garden Tips, In The Garden Tagged With: 3 inches, cedar mulch, deter weeds, garden, Heat wave, humidity, In The Garden, moist, moist soil, mulch, shredded cedar, watering

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