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You are here: Home / Archives for slugs

10 ways to minimize slugs and snails in the garden

by Tricia

I just received a comment on my main blog, Tricia’s Musings, from a regular reader and he said that he lost most of his Hyacinth flowers to slugs this year. What a shame! He must have a very heavy infestation of slugs. I don’t believe I’ve ever seen a slug on my hyacinth nor most of my early Spring bloomers.

How do you know if you have slugs or snails in your garden?

Well if you notice that your plants leaves have irregular holes in them or perhaps slime trails on the soil and leaves you probably have slugs or snails. You might also see them crawling on your plant leaves in the evening after dark.

Slugs can do a lot of damage to young plants and seedlings. They can literally strip a young plant bare or even eat it down to the ground. You might try cutting a 2 Liter pop bottle and creating a collar to place around young tender plants if you have slugs in your garden as this will help protect them.

Slugs are particularly fond of Hostas and Delphiniums. However having said that I’ve seen them on about half the plants I grow in my garden so keep any eye out for signs of slug damage.

Some tips on keeping slugs at bay

  • 1. Stir up the earth in your garden beds in the spring. This helps to expose the slug eggs/ larvae and causes them to die from the exposure.
  • 2. Don’t put mulch down until early June (at least here in this Zone 5b area, might be earlier in your area)
  • 3. Add used coffee grounds to the soil or apply around the base of plants troubled by slugs.
    • Each year we make several trips to coffee shops and ask for their used coffee grounds. Most will give them away to the public as they are just throwing them out in the garbage anyway. Some will even take a bucket from you and fill it up throughout the day. We add the coffee grounds to our garden beds, especially around slug troubled plants like Hostas and we also add the coffee grounds to our compost container as they help make a rich compost when they break down.
  • 4. Crushed egg shells around troubled plants is said to deter slugs as they don’t like crawling over abrasive material. Sand, wood shavings, diatomaceous earth, hair or ash can be placed around susceptible plants as an abrasive barrier as well.
  • 5. Copper tape, used wet or dry, is one of the most effective barriers. When slugs and snails make contact with the copper, there is a toxic reaction, similar to an electric shock, which repels them. The minimum width for the copper barriers needs to be at least two inches; slug barriers sold in nurseries are often smaller and should be doubled or tripled when installed.
  • 6. Slugs and snails tend to feed at night so you can go into your garden at night and literally pick the slimy slugs off your plants and dispose of them.
  • 7. You also might try setting some bait for slugs in shallow containers. A popular slug trap is baited with beer, but people have also tried using yeast, damp dog food (dry pellets), and a potato cut in half.
  • 8. You might also try purchasing Nematode worms from a garden supplier. Nematodes also help to keep other garden pests from the garden too.
    • Nematodes aggressively search out and attack slugs. They enter the slugs body through a hole behind their heads (the pulmonary aperture that they breathe through to be precise). Once inside they release a bacteria which stops the slug eating. The nematodes then start to reproduce inside and within 7-10 days the slug is dead. The nematodes continue to reproduce as the body breaks down. This new population enters the soil and searches out new slugs to attack. This is a natural, non-toxic product that is safe for both users and wildlife. The nematodes stay active for 6 weeks so a single dose protects plants when they are emerging in the spring and are most vulnerable.
    • Nematodes can only be used in late spring and summer when the soil has warmed up (to above 5°C). On heavy, waterlogged clay soil, the nematodes can find it difficult to move, so Nemtodes can be less effective in these conditions.
  • 9. Use plants that slugs dislike to repel slugs – Ginger, garlic, mint, chives, red lettuce, red cabbage, sage, sunflower, fennel, foxglove, mint, chicory & endive seem to be less prone to slug attack. Plant them around the perimeter of your garden to keep them from infiltrating, and or plant them near troubled plants such as Hosta.
  • 10. Make your garden bird friendly by putting out a feeder. The birds might pick off a few slugs while they’re visiting your yard. Also if you have frogs or snakes in your garden they will often eat slugs and other garden pests.

And a bonus tip … Slugs love moisture, so if you want to minimize slugs in your garden keep your garden as dry as possible (without killing your plants), especially in the spring when there are slug eggs in the ground. Dry soil could kill them or at the very least cause them to move to an area that suits them better – ie your neighbors yard. That’s one reason why I suggested turning your garden soil several times in the spring, preferably before your soil temp reaches 5 Celsius, as you will likely expose slug eggs and they will die because they’ll dry out.

As you can probably tell I’m not into using pesticides to get rid of slugs and other bad bugs. in fact here in Toronto they’ve banned most pesticides and herbicides so it’s a good thing I’ve been gardening without chemicals anyway! LOL I have a lot of success with these methods – particularly the coffee grounds, turning the soil and hand picking slugs and snails off my plants and as a result I don’t have too many slugs in my garden beds.

May your garden be slug and snail free this year!






Filed Under: Garden Maintenance, Garden Tips, Home and Lifestyle, In The Garden, Organic, pests, Spring Tasks Tagged With: abrasive, ash, bait, barrier, beer trap, bird friendly, birds, chicory, chives, coffee grounds, compost, copper tape, damage, delphinium, diatomaceous earth, dry soil, eat leaves, eat plants, egg shells, eliminate slugs, frogs, garden, garlic, get rid of slugs, ginger, Hosta, irregular holes, mint, moisture, natural, nematodes, Organic, pick off, protect plants, seedlings, signs, slime trail, slugs, snails, snakes, soil, strip plants, yeast

Making a Raised-Bed Garden

by Tricia

Back in 2002 when we landscaped our yard and started our garden we decided to create a raised bed garden.

We decided on raised bed gardening for a number of reason. The main reason being the soil in our yard seemed to be composed of mostly sand and clay. It was dry and difficult to dig deeper than 6 inches or so. amending the soil to a suitable consistency would have taken too long.

patio4 Raised garden beds are easy to build. They are also easy to plant new plants in, weed and maintain.

Other advantages of raised bed gardening that we considered before creating our garden were the fact that the soil would drain quickly in the spring when the snow melts, and the beds would warm up a little faster in the spring as well enabling us to either plant earlier in the season or giving the perennials and shrubs a head start.

So how can you make your own raised beds?

– We used easy wall garden stones (you can read the details of how we landscaped our garden here), but you can create your raised garden bed walls with:

– Concrete blocks, bricks, rocks, natural rot-resistant wood or wood that’s been treated with a safe preservative.

You might also need:

  • Sheet plastic and or a wood preservative if you create wood borders.
  • Measuring tape
  • Shovel
  • Spading fork
  • Rake
  • Hammer
  • Nails
  • Topsoil
  • Compost

Since our raised garden beds were meant to be permanent garden structures we also used gravel screening at the base of the easy wall stones to give the stones a good foundation and also to aid in drainage from the garden beds.

Temporary Raised Beds

If you’re still landscaping and trying to decide where you want to place your garden beds you might consider creating temporary raised garden beds. You can easily change your garden design each season using temporary raised garden beds.

All you really need to do to create a temporary raised bed is shovel garden soil into the area that you’ve planned for your raised bed. You might consider using Triple mix soil as it’s been blended with garden soil, topsoil and compost. Otherwise you can amend your garden spoil by adding top soil and compost to the mix yourself.

Permanent and temporary beds can be shaped in any way that you wish. You can create rectangular, curved, or even round beds.

The basics of building a raised garden bed is that it should be about 12 inches deep and usually no more than three to four feet wide.

Our beds are build around the edges of the garden so we only have access to each bed from one side, however you might think of making a round bed in the center of your lawn or placing two raised beds side by side with two to three feet of space between them for easy access. You’ll be able to access the garden beds from both sides so it will be even easier to care for than ours!

Be sure to remove any rocks, sticks or other debris from the garden bed as you create it. Rake the top of the bed smooth and flat when you are finished building up the soil.

Permanent raised garden beds:

When creating permanent raised garden beds you should use rot-resistant wood (cedar for example) or bricks, rocks, stones or cement blocks. As I said above your bed should be at least a foot deep and no more than three to four feet wide.

If you choose to use a rot resistant wood when creating your raised garden bed you might want to use an earth friendly preservative such as linseed oil or a borax based treatment to slow the rotting of the wood.

Raised beds can be build on the soil of your yard, but I’d recommend loosening the soil with a spading fork or shovel first.

Once you’ve completed building the walls of your raised beds fill with triple mix or top soil, garden soil and compost.

Planting Raised Beds

Now that you’ve created your raised beds you’ll be able to visualize how your garden will look when the beds are planted.

Depending upon what kind of garden you’ve planned you can plant vegetables, herbs or flowering plants in your raised beds.

As my regular readers know our raised beds have a mix of roses (over 60); shrubs – boxwood, Rose of Sharon, Rhododendron, and Azaleas; perennials – lavender, bee balm, saliva, Maltese cross, peonies and many more; and spring flowering plants and bulbs. We also grow tomatoes, carrots, peppers, herbs and leafy greens right in our raised beds along side the flowering plants. The mix of plants actually look quite nice together.

Most of your planting should be done during the spring and autumn months.

You might want to add some fertilizer to the soil around your new plants when you first plant them. We use natural fertilizers such as alfalfa pellets or brew some alfalfa tea or compost tea to use as fertilizer.

If you’ve built your raised garden beds along the perimeter of your yard or fence you’ll want to plant taller plants at the back of the raised beds and shorter plants near the front. If your raised bed is in the center of your yard you’ll likely want to plant the taller plants in the center/middle of the raised bed and surround them with shorter plants.

Just be sure not to compact the soil as you work in your raised beds planting your new plants.

Be sure to water your raised beds regularly. One of the cons of raised beds is that they dry out a little faster than other garden beds.

Every year, usually at the end of May or beginning of June we add some mulch to the garden beds.

We don’t do this earlier in the season as we like to turn the soil around the plants a little bit prior to adding mulch. turning the soil tends to keep slugs at bay. Perhaps their eggs die when exposed on top of the soil. Mulch too early and you might find your garden full of slugs.

Adding mulch to your garden beds adds organic material that will break down over time and help fertilize your soil. The seasonal benefit of mulching is of course that it helps conserve water by keeping the soil moist below the mulch and of course a layer of mulch two or three inches deep will keep weeds away too.

Use straw, shredded bark, shredded leaves or other materials for mulch.

Tips

As I said earlier we have a number of plants in our raised garden beds. I put some thought into what kind of plants I would grow so that I would pretty much have continuous blooms in my garden from late March to November and sometimes even early December.

A variety of bulbs and spring plants work well for early to late Spring. Choose some plants that bloom early and some that bloom later in the season.

Many of the spring blooming plants die down once the weather starts to warm up so they are planted near perennials and rose shrubs. So once they die down, the perennials appear or the roses begin to bloom and the space that the spring plants took in the garden is quickly filled by the growing perennials.

If you grow vegetables in the garden you can arrange to grow them in succession as well. Lettuce often does best in the spring or at least before the weather begins to get quite hot. Once your lettuce is done you might plant beans or another crop of vegetable that isn’t mature until late summer.

This is what our backyard looked like in July 2003 – just a little more than a year after we’d put in the raised garden beds –

wideview2

Believe it or not, the garden is even fuller now as the plants have reached maturity. It’s beautiful and even more amazing that we did it ourselves.

You can do – get inspired!

Filed Under: Garden Maintenance, Garden Tips, In The Garden, Landscaping Tagged With: Alfalfa tea, Azaleas, backyard, Beds, Bee Balm, bloom, blooming, blooms, boxwood, bricks, building, Bulbs, compost, conserve water, dig, easy wall, fertilizer, flower, garden, garden bed, garden beds, garden design, gardening, gravel, grow, grow vegetables, growing, landscape, Landscaping, maintain, Maltese cross, mulch, Organic, peonies, perennial, Perennials, permanent raised garden bed, plant, planted, planting, plants, raised beds, raised garden bed, raised garden beds, rake, rectangular, rose, Rose of Sharon, screening, shovel, shrub, slugs, snow, spring, spring flower, temporary raised garden beds, tips, tomato, Topsoil, warm, weed, weeds

Keep slugs at bay

by Tricia

Here’s my Tip of The Day:

If you live in a zone 5 or lower climate do not put mulch on your garden beds until June!

If you put it on too early you’ll have lots of slugs. Instead, take this time to stir up the soil around your plants. This will expose tiny slugs and either kill them off, or expose them to birds and other predators that will eat them.

You’ll have far fewer slugs if you turn the soil around your plants at least once a week until the end of May. Then, to keep moisture in the ground, and to help keep your plants roots cool, do put mulch around your plants anytime from the beginning of June to mid-June. Your garden will be be happy, will be a little more drought tolerant and you’ll likely have less slugs to deal with.

This really works!

Filed Under: Garden Tips, In The Garden, Spring Tasks Tagged With: dont mulch early, drought, drought tolerant, garden, garden bed, get rid of slugs, moisture, mulch, mulch in June, plant, plants, prevent slugs, roots, slug, slugs, turn soil

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