The perfect lawn doesn’t just happen. Rather, it is the result of hard work, patience and common sense. However, as long as the basic rules are followed, even a novice can achieve excellent results.

One of the keys to a perfect lawn grown from seed is soil preparation. First, the site has to be dug over and cleared of any detritus, stones and weeds. Weeds fall into two categories – annual weeds and perennial weeds. Annual weeds are easy to clear as they can be got rid of by hoeing or just in the act of turning over the earth and disturbing the roots. Perennial weeds are, however, a different matter, and require more care. When digging over the site, take care to remove all traces of roots as well as obvious weeds such as dandelions. The reason for this is that if you leave just one bit of root, no matter how small, it will probably return with a vengeance a few months down  the line and spoil the look of your new lawn.

When you are satisfied the area is weed-free, you can set about ensuring that you have a level surface on which to sow the seed. If you are dealing with a large area, you may find it easier to mark it out into sections and do one at a time. However you do it, it is useful to have a spirit level that you can place wherever desired to check that you haven’t created any slopes and that any hollows or bumps have been evened out. The best tool to use for flattening and levelling is a garden rake, which can also be used to break down any lumps of earth to form the fine tilth that you require.

At this point, you can take a breather, as you need to leave the prepared bed for two to three weeks to allow any weeds to germinate. When they do, treat them with a weedkiller and rake off after a couple of days. Then, apply a base dressing comprising of a micro-granular or compound granular fertilizer and leave for a few more days.

Now it’s time to sow the seed. Sowing is a relatively simple business, provided you do it on a dry, windless day, but before you even buy your seed, bear in mind what your lawn is going to be used for. If it is a family lawn that is going to bear the brunt of any manner of indignities, you require a different type of seed to someone who is going to plant a lawn for a putting or bowling green. Make sure you get the right seed mix by going to a reputable seedsman. It may cost a little more than the local garden centre, but his advice will prove to be well worth any extra cost in years to come.

Scatter the seed in the proportions (grams per square metre) advised by your seedsman or on the box. To avoid sowing unevenly and to make sure you have sufficient seed, mark the plot out into sections of one square metre with a little sand. If you don’t do that, you may run out of seed before you’ve covered the whole site.

Finally, spray the area with water. It’s vital to keep it moist over the first ten to fifteen days, so the seeds will germinate. Depending on whether you sow in the spring or the autumn, the best sowing times, you can either rely on the weather or have to do it yourself, but don’t let it dry out. When the grass has reached a height of about five centimetres, you can cut it to about two to three centimetres with a rotary mower.

Written on behalf of the seed specialists King Seeds